Lava Rock Anthurium

         These anthurium plants have been specially hybridized for use as houseplants due to trouble free growing requirements. They can either be grown with the bowl and gravel as a humidity aid or planted on top of a pot filled with anthurium potting mix. The roots will continue to grow over and through the rock and into the potting media for a unique look. You can use a half and half mixture of potting soil and orchid soil or perlite if you choose not to use the bowl and gravel method.

Water

         While anthurium can handle dryness around the root ball, they need to be watered thoroughly and allowed to dry slightly before watering again. Allowing the plant to dry out will greatly slow down its growth cycle. Drying out can also cause the tips of the leaves to burn and root damage, while over watering can also cause root damage and sudden yellowing of the leaves. A rock can be full of water the way that a sponge can be full of water.  When a sponge is damp enough that it has dried out to the point that it is still damp everywhere, but just beginning to slightly dry out on the surface to the point where if squeezed you can get a little water out of it then it is dry enough. This metaphor can be applied to the amount of moisture your rock can hold and when its dry enough its ready for water. Each rock has varying levels of porousness that will affect how much water it can hold. If you choose to use with the bowl and rocks vs. the potting method, you will be able to pick up the rock. With the pot, eventually roots will attach the rock to the media below it, preventing you from lifting the rock out of the pot. Either way, the following will help to understand and get a routine established. The bottom half of the rock should still be damp, but not wet and when the top side is just barely beginning to go dry on the surface then its ready for more water. It does not matter how the water is applied so long as it is applied when its dry enough.  Water can be poured slowly over the top center of the plant above the base where it comes out of the rock, the rock can be saturated in a tub of water for a minute or two, or rinsed with a shower of water.  Use the bowl and gravel as previously described in the introduction to plant care as a humidity aid by only filling with water as soon as it begins to go dry. If you are using the cinder for your bowl, the cinder will go from a grey color when dry to a black color when wet. With the cinder you can see when to refill the bowl, which is when you have no water in the bowl and a dry grey ring of cinder around where the rock sits, but when you lift the rock up the cinders below are still damp and more black. It’s usually about once a week, but the conditions of the environment plays a big role in the timing. A home in Alaska or Las Vegas could be dry enough to water 2-3 times a week, while a naturally more humid environment could make it anywhere from once every 5-10 days.

Air

         They do prefer a more humid environment, but with use of a bowl and gravel, and by misting the roots at the top of the lava rock between watering that will help provide humidity. In especially dry environments humidifiers will be helpful, but not necessary. Near a kitchen sink or bathroom where more running water is present would be ideal in drier locations with other adequate lighting and growing conditions. Avoid heaters or other such vents.

Light

         They can thrive with bright natural light, but not direct sun. Lower levels of light will slow down or cease flower production. A south or east facing windowsill is a good option.

Temperature

         They must always remain above frost levels. Conditions above 50 fahrenheit would be best, especially to encourage blooms. A range from between 60-70 to 85-90 degrees F, night-to-day would be ideal.

Fertilizer

         Ideally, use a 7-13-7 High Magnesium fertilizer with 58% magnesium content, but at a ¼ strength of the recommend dosage, which is indicated on the package of fertilizer. Anthuriums love their magnesium. This ratio is not always readily available and if grown on top of a pot of anthurium potting media fertilize once every 3-4 months, using a fertilizer that has a higher phosphorous number (the middle number). When using the bowl and rocks method I recommend a fertilizer concentrate of the same kind of fertilizer for the potting method applied at a ¼ strength of the recommended dosage, once a month from Spring through Fall.

Lava Rock Tillandsia Cyanea 

         Tillandsia Cyanea is part of the Bromeliad family, an epiphyte, which obtains all its minerals and nutrients from the air.  As an epiphytic plant it does not require soil, but a mixture of an acid soil that is rich in peat with a bit of sand will work if not grown in lava rock, or 1 part perlite and 2 parts bromeliad mix. The nature of this plant is to start as a pup out with one small set of leaves with a center that once its full grown will produce a pink feather shaped bloom, which has small purple flowers that come out of the sides of the pink bloom.  It will usually produce pups of its own that will replace the parent as it lives out its life, slowly taking over in its place. If you wanted to transplant the pup other lava rocks can be used, which are for sale, or plant in a piece of driftwood and display on a shelf, or perhaps a clear glass jar filled with marbles…be creative! However, I recommend waiting until the 3rd generation to start experimenting. General grooming of the plant is recommended to appreciate the foliage that is still healthy and to make room for the new emerging plant(s). Once a month or as needed just prune of the oldest leaves from a 1/2 inch from their base and trim any other leaves at a 45 degree angle where the tips of the leaves have deteriorated. I like to describe this lava rock plant like having a living bouquet because once you bring it home it already has the pink quill, which is meant to produce beautiful little purple flowers out of sides of it for the first 2-3 months, depending on how large the pink quill is... and then its next goal is to produce the next generation or pup that will once mature produce its pink quill. If it doesn't all you have left is a lava rock (plant an air plant in it!), but at least it lasted much longer than a bouquet of flowers.

                   Water 

         The curved leaves allow for the natural collection of water, and by misting the plant thoroughly once a week, or twice a week in drier environments, its reservoir should remain moist. However, be careful not to over water which could result in fungal growth.  The plant does not like to dry out either.  A good rule of thumb is to have 2 cm of water in the reservoir at its fullest. The lava rock can be submerged under water for a few minutes once a week or so and in drier environments, submerge every 2-3 days, but only when the rock is dry enough. However, if you always fill the bowl with water when dry enough then that should suffice with the occasional submersion if allowed to go too dry. The roots do not like to get too wet, so find the balance that works best for your plant.  Keep in mind that the environment will change with the seasons, with heating vs. air conditioning, a draft from an opened door, window or fan, which can alter the timing of the routine of how often to water. They absorb moisture through trichomes in their leaves and the environment they are in will dictate its watering needs. If grown in potting media keep moist and avoid overwatering if misting the foliage regularly.

                    Air

         Humid air is ideal. The less humid the air is, the use of a bowl with rocks as described in the introduction as a humidity aid will be more pertinent. Keep in a well-ventilated area.

Light

         They have moderate light requirement. Bright, but indirect natural light is needed to bloom as it will not flower if kept in a dark location. The plant can survive the darker months of the year, but when light is more abundant make sure the plant can receive it without burning it.

                Temperature

         When kept above frost levels it can survive! It would be ideal to always keep above 55 fahrenheit and prefers a range from 60 to 75. With more shade it can tolerate heat up to 90.

Fertilizer

         This one prefers a fertilizer with a low metal content. You can use an all-purpose orchid food diluted to 1/2 strength or this fertilizer formulated for air plants. Once a month in the winter and 2-3 times a month in the summer should be enough. In nature this plant gets its moisture and nutrients through the foliage. It is best to spray the fertilizer onto the foliage and the surface of the growing medium at the base of the plant where it’s coming out of the rock, primarily foliage! Growth of the plant and light availability dictate the need for fertilizer.

Blooms

         It starts from the plants center with a feather-like inflorescence with overlapping bracts. It can take 3-6 months for it to become as large and colorful as it can get and by then it will begin to produce little purple flowers that zig zag their way out of each bract of the paddle, which will then begin to lose color until it is so dried up that it will fall out. You can intervene by continually twisting the paddle until it breaks off. However, wait until your tired of looking at it as it is the reward of the process of this plant. Each purple flower that is meant to come out will only last a few days and once its wilted gently pluck it away from the pink quill, or it begins to stick onto and dry up on the paddle.

   Forcing it to bloom with an apple!

         When the pup has reached maturity, you can stimulate the plant to produce the next pink paddle/bloom with a ripe apple. You do not have to do this if you would like to patiently wait for it to come when it comes. When the apple and the plant are trapped together in an air-tight environment for 7-10 days in a row an ethylene gas is released from the apple that will trigger the blooms development. The plant will not grow much more after this and could take a year to be full enough to reach the recommend maturity. Before applying the following technique be sure to stop fertilizing 2 weeks before and wait until 2 weeks after you can see the bloom forming to resume fertilizing. For best results make sure night temperatures stay above 65 during this process and make sure its in a shaded spot as too much light could damage it. First remove water as the central tank and the leaf axils need to be empty. You do not want the plant to be too wet while in the bag for this time. Place your plant and a ripe apple in the air-tight bag or container and seal shut for around 10 days, less if it looks too moist in there around day 7. After 7-14 days remove your plant and put it back in its spot and carefully readjust it to its routine. It should take 6-14 weeks before you can see the new bloom beginning to form in the center of the plant

Lava Rock Schefflera

         In 2008 the dwarf schefflera I originally started out with are two forms of the arboricola variety with either green or variegated foliage. I am slowly introducing other varieties, including both Alpine Jr and Amate soleil. This evergreen shrub has glossy, dark green, or variegated leaves densely covering flexible green stems, which fan out gently. This will be the easiest plant to care for, especially if grown in the style of bonsai gardening. This can simply be done by limiting the root growth by cutting off any roots beyond one inch in length under the rock, or let them continue to grow over the rock and into a small container like the wooden bowls. I would allow any root growth that develops within the first 6 months to a year alone. It is more important to have a successfully acclimated plant before you prune any roots, if any as its only to limit plant growth.  If you have a young plant that was never topped before you should wait at least 6 months to a year as well. If you do not top the plant it will grow long and become leggy. By topping the plant from time to time it will allow for a fuller plant. One of the great things about this plant is to be able to adapt to many different environments. If your plant was recently topped when you purchased it then you can wait until its growth becomes fuller and longer. In about 2-3 years it will be ready. When you are ready to top your plant please email me a few photos at different angles and I will mark a line where I would suggest pruning it. Soon I hope to have videos and photos to show the process, but for now once you are done topping the plant there are some good YouTube videos that can show you how to root your cutting. The Schefflera can live a long life with minimal care once well established to its surroundings. The acclimation process is a sensitive time, which is why adjusting your plant to its new home can be a make or break it time. When introducing this plant into its new environment there are two main factors to consider. The first is to pick the most ideal location in your home or office and keep it there as the location you put it in will dictate its needs. Consistency in its environment when acclimating would be ideal vs. air conditioning on one day and then super-hot the next day. The second thing is watering it when its ready with ideal timing as to prevent going too dry and also to not overwater either. It needs a chance to breathe and begin to dry out. Once it just begins to start to dry out its ready.

                 Water

         Over watering this plant is the most common thing done wrong, especially during the acclimation process. A rock can be full of water the way that a sponge can be full of water.  When a sponge is damp enough that it has dried out to the point that it is still damp everywhere, but just beginning to dry out on the surface to the point where if squeezed you might get just a few drops of water then it is dry enough. This metaphor can be applied to the amount of moisture your rock can hold and when its dry enough its ready for water. Each rock has varying levels of porousness that will affect how much water it can hold. The bottom half of the rock should still be slightly damp, but not wet and when the top side is just barely beginning to go dry on the surface then its ready for more water. It does not matter how the water is applied so long as it is applied when its dry enough.  Water can be poured slowly over the top of the rock at the base of the trunk where it comes out of the rock, the rock can be saturated in a tub of water for a minute or two, or rinsed with a shower of water.  Use the bowl and gravel as previously described above as a humidity aid by only filling with water once dry. If you are using the cinder for your bowl, the cinder will go from a grey color when dry to a black color when wet. With the cinder you can see when to refill the bowl, which is when you have no water in the bowl and a dry grey ring of cinder around where the rock sits, but when you lift the rock up the cinders below are still damp and more black. Its usually about once a week, but the conditions of the environment plays a big role in the timing. A home in Alaska or Las Vegas could be dry enough to water 2-3 times a week, while a naturally more humid environment could make it anywhere from once every 5-10 days.

                    Light

         This plant is known to grow well indoors in a well lit environment. Even though bright natural light is ideal, indoor lighting can be good enough. A minimum of 6 to 8 hours of light bright enough to read a book where the plants location is would be a good minimal amount of light if natural light is not available, but 8-10 or more hours would better, especially if natural light is not available. With more light your plant will produce more compact growth. In a darker environment it will become long and leggy, developing larger leaves and is harder for a new plant transitioning to a new location. Keep free from dust. Light can be blocked by dust on the leaf surface. Keep away from direct sun. Indirect, and abundant light is preferred.

                Temperature

         It can survive if kept above frost levels.
However, ideally to never let it get below 50 fahrenheit and prefers a range from around 60 at night and up to 80/90 during the day. This plant likes consistency, acclimating to a home where as the seasons change so does the growing environment. For example you wouldn't want to leave it in an environment that's only well lit and air-conditioned all week, but then become hot and struggles with lights and air off on the weekends. If you live somewhere warm enough and choose to leave it outside all year, keep in mind that if provided with more shade heat a little over 90 can be tolerated a better.

                  Fertilizer

         Some packaging may indicate Schefflera as a plant that it is ideal for use with on the back of the label where the details of the fertilizer are. You can use an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer powder or liquid concentrate that is mixed with water. BE SURE to dilute using a 1/4 strength of what is indicated in the directions on the package of fertilizer. Water the plant with this solution once a month from Spring through Fall.

Plumeria

         Their rich and memorable flagrance is known as ‘the scent of Hawaii’. Most of the more than 300 different color varieties are all deciduous and, even here in Hawaii, the leaves will fall off in the winter months. In the winter they are sparse in foliage if any due to their predominantly deciduous nature. There is an evergreen or non-deciduous variety. In Hawaii, you will see both the full size and dwarf evergreen species. The evergreens have thick, succulent, round tipped leaves. While the deciduous variety has a fine pointed tip. Plumeria are very adaptable. They can be grown in containers, in the ground, or you can use the plunging method (sinking containers into the ground). During their growth season, your plant will require lots of sun, water, and fertilizer to thrive. When your plumeria gets at least 6-8 hours of full sun per day, it will produce lots of sweet smelling, beautiful blooms. This plant feeds heavily and will grow and bloom vigorously if you give it plenty of its favorite fertilizer. Plumeria can grow up to 20 feet high and 20 feet in diameter. You can help control the size of your plant by the size of container you choose for it and how often you prune it. If you just purchased a young rooted deciduous Plumeria then do not worry if the leaves turn brown and fall off in transit or soon thereafter. This is normal and if it is the growing season then it will soon be full of leaves. Sometimes the evergreens can drop their foliage within the first few weeks of acclimation, but once adjusted and it is full with leaves that developed during and after acclimation it should only become fuller.

Container Growing

         A black nursery container is preferable for Plumeria to clay pots because of the porous nature of clay, which allows roots to be embedded in the walls and moisture to escape too quickly. Be sure to use one with good drainage. Black pots can absorb heat, which is good for Plumeria, but plastic pots are another good option because they lack the porousness of clay. More container info is available below in the section on repotting.

Water

         Originally, Plumeria is thought to be a drought tolerant desert plant. Plumeria can adapt from humid to dry conditions. In Maui, for example, it has adapted not only to the dry side of the island, but also the rainforests of Hana. The size of the pot and the root system will determine how much water to add. A young root system in a small 4-inch pot would only need around a ½ a cup at first and only when dry enough. In the Summer and especially as more roots grow it will be able to handle more water when watering.  In the Fall it will begin to need less water. Water needs to be applied seasonally. Most Plumeria are deciduous so when Fall arrives and the leaves begin falling off, begin decreasing how much water is added and how often you add it. Water sparingly in the winter months should you choose to keep it near a sunny window. If you choose the winter storage option described below, you might only water once every 4 weeks or so, if at all. No matter when you add water throughout the year, it is important to always allow the root system a chance to begin to dry out each time before adding water as Plumeria do not like to remain wet, especially when adapted to a routine like this vs. growing in Hana. Never leave the pot in a saucer or drip tray with water in it as it needs to drain well and breathe. Allow the top half of the root system to dry out more than the bottom. When the potting media at the bottom half is still slightly damp and no longer wet then its ready. The non-deciduous ones will need less water given the loss of summer warmth and sunshine, but will still be much more regular with its watering needs, especially compared to the deciduous ones that will go dormant to one degree or another if not completely, especially if forced.

Light

         Plumerias love full sun! However, if your plant has been shaded for a while, such as in the house for the winter, do not just plunk it down in the middle of the yard. If you just bought it, it has been in a greenhouse shaded from full sun and protected from going much over 90 fahrenheit — so please use caution when acclimating your plant to its new environment. Move it gradually into full sun so it can adjust to the strong rays and avoid ‘sunburn’. Stems that have been stored for the winter need this same gradual care. To bloom best, Plumeria will require a lot of sun. They prefer bright, airy spots like sunny greenhouses with good ventilation, or a front walkway that catches the early morning sun into the afternoon. If your succulents and cactus like the spot, so will your Plumeria. The evergreen variety will need the most natural light available year round and the deciduous varieties can be stored in the winter months, but it will usually bounce back faster in the spring if you give it as much natural light as you can in the winter and throughout the whole year. The more sun you provide it the more flowers it provides you!

Temperature

         Protect your new and young Plumeria from temperatures below 50 and above 90 Fahrenheit. Once more established, they can tolerate occasional drops to around freezing for very-short periods. Frost will kill the ends and cause a delay in blooms. Exposure to freezing temperatures longer than a few hours will kill your Plumeria. I have customers from several cold locations such as Alaska, Minnesota, etc. and they will keep their plants outside once warm enough (above 50 f 24/7). Some places only for a month each year, but most folks get at least two to three months that are warm enough to leave outside in full sun. While other folks in places like Arizona and Las Vegas are having success in temperatures consistently well over a hundred degrees for days and weeks at a time. A new and young Plumeria needs to grow into these conditions through careful acclamation as with light also with temperature this process can be an especially sensitive time for a new and young plant. If you purchased it after late Spring it might just be safer to wait until the next Spring season when night temps are warm enough to leave outside. This way whether your daytime Highs are only in the 70s-80s, or 90 and Beyond your Plumeria will have time to adjust to the temperatures with each passing week. Even if you live somewhere warm enough to consider planting in the ground my advice is to leave it in a pot at first. Not only will it be more established to your environment by Spring you could have the option of moving indoors to avoid any unexpected cold for its first winter. The more warmth you provide your Plumeria the more flowers it will provide you!

Fertilizer

         Use a concentrated water-soluble plant food, which makes nutrients immediately available to plants. A Super Bloom type fertilizer from around 10-30-10 to 12-55-6. There is no need to add a soil mix that contains fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro or other plants soil mixes or manure. These do not have the proper drainage needed, will become soggy, and are too slow to filter the water. Let your Plumeria receive its nutrients through the water you give it. Once well rooted and spring arrives the time to begin a fertilizer routine is approaching. It should be ready sometime between March thru May. First it should have several newly formed leaves and when dry enough for its regular watering, begin the routine with this fertile water. The routine is repeated every 10 to 14 days until Fall, watering without fertile water in between fertilizing only as needed. If at the beginning of fall it is aggressively losing leaves you can resume fertilizer in the spring. Otherwise continue every two to three weeks until leaves begin falling off. A fertilizer that is high in phosphorus will help your Plumeria bloom. Each time it blooms, it branches out, hopefully with two or more new branches. Therefor with more branches will come more blooms! If you really want to rev up the flower ability of your Plumeria you may supplement regular fertilizer feedings with a foliation fertilizer spray routine. Use a 10-10-10 SNG (Spray-N-Grow) fertilizer mix combined with Coco-Wet, following the directions on the labels.

Potting Media & Repotting

         When starting from seed, or a small enough cutting a 2 to 4-inch pot is all you need for root space at this beginning stage. Keep in original pot until just becoming root bound. Signs to look for: roots growing through all the drainage holes, roots are pushing the plant up, out of the planter and the plant is growing slower than normal, but different than winter dormancy. If you give it too big of a pot too soon or increase the pot size dramatically it will take longer to bloom, becoming more focused on filling the pot with roots. There is also a greater potential of over-watering. The more room the roots have the bigger the plant will become. Use a porous potting media so it can drain well. Plumeria require a potting media that promotes good drainage. A good mix would be 1/3 crushed cinder, 1/3 perlite, and 1/3 bark compost or peat. Cutting the plant back and increasing its pot size a little at a time it will not only be easier to bring in and as it gets older. It will also cause the trunk to grow thicker and the plant to become fuller with a lot more flower potential. Within the first year or two, that 4-inch pot your Plumeria started in will be too small to sustain vigorous growth. A 6-8 inch or will sustain your Plumeria for the next year or two. Replant your Plumeria so the stem is at the same level as before. Sometimes you can skip the repotting and just top up your media. To do this, remove some of the old media off the top of the pot and add fresh media. You can alternate this with repotting. Pruning the fine roots each spring is beneficial to the plant. The fine roots from the year before will die during the winter. These old roots take a long time to decompose and may clog your pot. If you prune the roots, you can put fresh potting media in its place around the larger roots, keeping in the same pot for several years. Be sure to monitor your root system. The key to a healthy Plumeria is a healthy root system. Once the root system has filled the pot, it is best to move up a pot size to allow your plant to expand. This will promote a healthy trunk which needs a growing root stock to promote its growth. Without a healthy, growing trunk it will be difficult for your plant to support its ever branching and growing top.

Dormancy & Winter Protection

         Once the temperatures begin to get cold enough bring your Plumeria indoors. Deciduous Plumeria should not need to be given water very often, if at all, during the winter. As Fall arrives and the days shorten, your deciduous Plumeria will begin to go dormant. Store the plants in an area with bright light. They can survive storage in a dark, cool place, but they bloom better the next season if they spend the winter with warmth and light. The growth will remain straighter and more compact if they continue to get bright light in the winter. A greenhouse could be ideal for winter. Alternatively, you can store them inside by removing the plants from their pots (make sure they are dry first), shaking off any loose soil and keeping them in a warm attic or closet above 50f. If you choose to store this way remove the leaves first, giving them a couple of days for the sap to dry before storage. When the weather warms up in the spring, take them out and trim the roots before replanting. If desired, after replanting them in pots you could then submerge the pots in the ground for easy fall removal (the ‘plunging method’ mentioned in the beginning). This will also promote good growth during warm weather. Provide some shade from direct sun for a couple of weeks as they adjust to the outdoors before moving into full sun, which needs to happen before it is too hot. If you have the non-deciduous type just shelter from cold and provide good warmth and light until you can move it outside again. They might lose their leaves the first winter, but once they get going, they should keep them all year. In the winter, due to less ideal conditions and the break from fertilizer they will need less water.

Pruning

         You can prune Plumeria at any time using a sharp knife or cutting tool. Be sure to prune at an angle, preventing the cut from holding any moisture. The plant will bleed a latex sap and can be rinsed off. If you dip the cut briefly in water, it can help it stop flowing. If you think the plant is getting too tall, prune it so the blooms will be at a better height. Your Plumeria will just grow more branches from below where pruned and this of course will eventually promote even more blooms. Be sure to plant the cuttings!

Growing Plumeria From Cuttings

         Cuttings for propagation should be at about a foot in length. Allow them to dry in a ventilated area for up to a week or longer as needed. The cut needs to dry and scab up. Choose a pot that is 4 inches wide and deep. To plant your cutting make a two-inch deep hole in the media. You can do this by sticking the cutting into the media after you have filled the pot and gently wet the media. To enhance root-growth use a rooting hormone designed for soft wood cuttings. Take the cutting back out and dip the cut side in some rooting hormone and plant. Do not plant it more than the 2 inches deep as roots will develop from the bottom of the cutting. You may want to place a few rocks around the base of the cutting to help keep it propped up once planted. Make sure it is kept on the dry side. It will take about a month for your cutting to start to root. You will know it has begun rooting once you have at least 4-5 well formed leaves, which is when it should start showing a thirst for more water. It is important to provide a warm environment and bottom heat, it will root better. A heat pad underneath can help if too cold to leave out in an area with heat on a hot surface. Placing the pot on warm cement ground can aid the rooting process. After you have planted your cutting it should not be watered again until a few leaves have formed at the tip indicating a root system is forming unless the soil is completely dry. At that point water sparingly and slowly increase the amount of water as the plant progresses. The hotter/drier it is the more you can water. If you are considering starting this process late into Fall use a heat mat and strong indoor florescent lighting. You could just wait to plant your cutting in the Spring. Cuttings can be stored in a cool dry place for many months. Just wrap them up in some newspaper and pull them out when you are ready to go! Most cuttings will make it, but no matter how well you follow the directions some will not. It is just the nature of the game. It should take at least 3-6 months before you have a decent root system developing. If they are kept too moist the cuttings may begin to rot.

Growing Plumeria From Seeds

         Plumeria can be grown easily from seed, but the seedlings will not remain true to their variety. All named varieties are grown from cuttings from plants with excellent characteristics. A cutting will always be just like the parent. A seedling may have different characteristics from the parent. If you want to grow your own seed, just let the pods develop and ripen over several months. The pod will explode sending seeds everywhere, so you may want to tie a paper bag around it to catch all the seed. Each pod holds about 100 seeds. Plant the seeds in small 2-inch pots with bottom heat. Use a soil-less mix such as Pro-Mix as the growing medium. Plant the seeds about ¼ inch deep. Tap them down firmly and water them gently. You will be amazed at how quickly they sprout. When they have grown at least two true leaves, transplant them to 4-inch pots. They will grow quickly and will bloom in about 2 to 3 years from seed.

Helpful Link to More Information