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PLANT CARE INFO

Plant Care!

GENERAL PLANT CARE/PLEASE READ FIRST:

The following is some information on how to begin the plant routine that works best in your environment. By understanding more about the plants you have, you will know what type of routine is necessary to maintain your plants’ health. Since all environments are different, you will need to do what works best where you are. I recommend doing thorough research about these plants to further your success with them. Even though there are some tips to follow, I believe that the more that you understand the nature of the plant you have that the more success you will have. In other words… Don’t just do what it says, know why your doing what it says!

BEFORE YOU BEGIN… If the plant you purchased was shipped to you then keep in mind it has been in a box with no light or air circulation. Either way even if you were able to spoil your plants tucked away in your carry on bag it still is usually moist when you first remove it from the packaging, which is why it is so important the let the plant breathe before being watered the first time. Usually the plants will not need water on the day they are recieved unless they are really dry upon arrival, which is rare. To unpack your plant from the box is was mailed to you in cut the top and bottom and cut one side to unfold all four flaps open and then cut the tape to remove the plant from the sides of the box its taped to. After you remove the plant from the plastic bag remove the paper from around the rock and allow it to breath by giving it good air circulation and light for at least 2 to 24 hours unless your plant seems dry and ready for water. More on when your plant is ready for water is covered as in the directions that follow. When you first receive your plant you might need to use a sponge and gently wipe off some of leaves if they show any signs of a film on them. If you bought your plant at the Honolulu airport then it was packed in a clear plastic box once removed from the box remove the saran wrap from around the rock.

THE BEST WATER to use would be distilled water or clean rain, melted snow, or filtered drinking water. Avoid hard or soft water. In an effort to maintain the quality of the surface of the lava rock you can also use a steel brush designed to remove rust or paint to clean the surface of your lava rock, and/or a file as well. Just be CAREFUL with the roots! If you have any mold growing its usually a sign of too much moisture and not enough light. A mixture of 1 part hydrogen peroxide to 3 parts water is a good solution to dip the brush/file in when cleaning the surface of the rock. After your done cleaning the rock use the high pressure of water to rinse it off.

THE BOWL AND ROCKS: This is s tool used to help the plant collect humidity as well as to arrange the lava rock plant the way you want it displayed. The bowl should be filled 2/3 to 3/4 full with the rocks and the plant will sit on top the rocks in the bowl, nestled in at the angle that you want to display it. 
How deep a bowl you have and how dry your environment is will determine how often to fill the bowl with water, which should only be refilled once dry. The full point is as soon as you can see the water just barely meets the surface of the rocks in the bowl. If you didn't purchase a bowl and the rocks that are included with the purchase of the bowl (carry with only-rocks for the bowl cannot be shipped) then many substitutes can be used such as aquarium gravel, pebbles, sand, marbles, beads, etc. The rocks are also known as 'cinders' just in case you can find them.

FERTILIZER NOTE: Since the lava rock plants aren't growing in soil I recommend using a liquid fertilizer that is diluted at quarter strength of what's indicated from the directions that will be on the label of the fertilizer you use. Please take into consideration when reading about the specific plants below that the temperature and environment that the plant grows in will affect the type and frequency of the fertilize to be used. So if you’re not sure, a suggestion I make is to let your local plant expert know what plant you have and feed it with what they suggest and when, as they will know your specific environment best!.

What To Do With Your Plant When On Vacation: This technique outlined is a last resort plan as plants like consistancy and some plants will take to this technique better than others. Ok… Use a deep 5 gallon bucket and put some bricks or something in there about halfway and set your Lava Rock Plant on the top of the stack, filling with water up to the middle of the rock that the plant is growing in. Now use a piece of clear plastic(saran wrap) as a lid, but with holes for it to breath, condensation will occur and with good light and temperatures while away this should HOPEFULLY keep it alive while your away for up to 30 days  or so if you can’t find a plant sitter, which would be most ideal for the consistency of the plants routine.

<<<<<<<<to identify which plant you have see the photos on the lava rock plant page>>>>>>>> 

Lava Rock Tillandsia Cyanea/Funckiana

  
GENERAL INFO: Tillandsia Cyanea is part of the Bromeliad family, and is an epiphyte, which obtains all its minerals and nutrients from the air.  As an epiphytic plant is doesn’t require soil, but a mixture of an acid soil that is rich in peat with a bit of sand will work if not grown in lava rock, The nature of this plant is to start out with one small set of leaves with a center that once its full grown will produce a pink feather shaped bloom, which has small purple flowers that come out of the sides of the pink bloom.  It is meant to produce a new plant or plants known as a pup that will replace the parent as it lives out it’s life.  The new plant(s) will take the place of the parent as it slowly dies the new one(s) slowly take over in its place. Aside from allowing them to occupy the space in the rock where the original plant was, other lava rocks can be used, which are for sale, or plant in a piece of driftwood and display on a shelf, or perhaps a clear glass jar filled with marbles…be creative. However I recommend to wait until the 3rd generation to start experimenting. General grooming of the plant is recommended to appreciate the foliage that is still healthy and to make room for the new emerging plant(s). Once a month or as needed just prune of the oldest leaves from a 1/2 inch from their base and trim any other leaves at a 45 degree angle where the tips of the leaves have deteriorated. I like to describe this lava rock plant like having a living bouquet because once you bring it home it already has the pink quill, which is meant to produce beautiful little purple flowers out of sides of it for the first 2-3 months, depending on how large the pink quill is... and then its next goal is to produce the next generation or pup that will once mature produce its pink quill. If it doesn't all you have left is a lava rock (plant an air plant in it!), but at least it lasted much longer than a bouquet of flowers.

WATERING: The curved leaves allow for the natural collection of water, and by misting the plant thoroughly once a week, or twice a week in drier environments, its reservoir should remain moist. However, be careful not to over water which could result in fungal growth.  The plant does not like to dry out either.  A good rule of thumb is to have 2 cm of water in the reservoir at its fullest. The lava rock can be submerged under water for a few minutes once a week or so.  In drier environments, submerge every 2-3 days. However if you always fill the bowl with rocks with water when dry enough then that should suffice with the occasional submersion if allowed to go excessively dry. The roots don’t like to stay too wet, so find the balance that works best for your individual plant.  Keep in mind that the environment will change with the seasons, with heating vs. air conditioning, etc., which can alter the timing of the routine on how often to water.

AIR:Humid air is ideal. Use a bowl and rocks as described above as a humidity aid. Keep in a well ventilated area.

LIGHT: They like bright indirect natural light. It can grow well but will not flower if kept in a dark location..

TEMPERATURE: As long as it is kept above frost levels it can survive. It prefers consistency. 70 degrees F would be ideal, but nothing too much over 90 degrees preferred.

FERTILIZER: Bromeliads prefer a fertilizer with a low metal contents. You can use an all purpose orchid food diluted to 1/2 strength or this fertilizer formulated for air plantsYou want to fertilize in the spring and/or summer. In nature this plant gets its moisture and nutrients through the foliage. For this reason it's best to spray the fertilizer onto the foliage and the surface of the growing medium at the base of the plant where its coming out of the rock.
When the pup has reached maturity and is full with new growth you can stimulate the plant to produce the next pink paddle/bloom with a ripe apple. When the apple and the plant are trapped in an air tight environment overnight for 7-10 days in a row a gas is released from the apple that will help the plant produce the next bloom sooner than later.

BLOOMS: The pink paddle will fade, especially in direct sun, and when all the little purple flowers have all zig zagged their way up the paddle, it will one day fall over and deteriorate. Or you can intervene, and twist the paddle like turning a key until it breaks off. Each purple flower that is meant to come out will only last a few days and once its wilted gently pluck it away from the pink quill. 

NOTE: Please see the GENERAL PLANT CARE/PLEASE READ FIRST section, FIRST!!!  I encourage you to learn as much as you can about your plants. With more knowledge comes a higher probability of success. Good luck!

Lava Rock Vriesea Ella/Robin/Splenreit

GENERAL INFO: This small plant is a bromeliad, Vriesea guzmania, and produces a Pokoniful flower.  The multiple bract spike should provide weeks of tropical color to any interior.  Grooming helps to keep it healthy.  Simply remove brown tips or dying leaves by using pruning sheers.  Never tear leaves from plant.  result in injury to the stem.  Although the central plant dies after flowering, they should produce offshoots “pups” that can provide for the steady renewal of the plant!

WATERING: They have shallow root systems and should be kept relatively dry.  They are much like guzmanias in their cultural needs.  Water once a week by pouring water directly over lava rock and roots.  The base of each leaf is known as a tank and it always have some water in it.  It should be filled by misting the plant thoroughly.  Flush the tank periodical using fresh water in it, inverting and filling, misting again.  The lava rock can be submerged under water for 30 seconds when nearly dry.  The roots don’t like to stay too wet.

AIR: Humid air is ideal. Use a bowl and rocks as described above as a humidity aid. Keep in a well ventilated area.

LIGHT: They like bright indirect natural light. It can grow well but will not flower if kept in a dark location..

TEMPERATURE: Do not allow temperature below 40 degrees F.  Warm temperatures are ideal to survive and grow well.  Temperatures should be at least 60 to 70 degrees F., but always between 50 to 90 F.  Ideal temperature75 degrees F.

FERTILIZER: Bromeliads prefer a fertilizer with a low metal contents. You can use an all purpose orchid food diluted to 1/2 strength or this fertilizer formulated for air plantsYou want to fertilize in the spring and/or summer. In nature this plant gets its moisture and nutrients through the foliage. For this reason it's best to spray the fertilizer onto the foliage and the surface of the growing medium at the base of the plant where its coming out of the rock.
When the pup has reached maturity and is full with new growth you can stimulate the plant to produce the next pink paddle/bloom with a ripe apple. When the apple and the plant are trapped in an air tight environment overnight for 7-10 days in a row a gas is released from the apple that will help the plant produce the next bloom sooner than later..

NOTE: Please see the GENERAL PLANT CARE/PLEASE READ FIRST section, FIRST!!!  I encourage you to learn as much as you can about your plants. With more knowledge comes a higher probability of success. Good luck!

 

Lava Rock Schefflera

GENERAL INFO: This Dwarf Schefflera is an evergreen shrub with glossy, dark green, or variegated leaves densely covering flexible green stems, which fan out gently. This will be the easiest plant to care for, especially if grown in the style of bonsai gardening. This can simply be done by limiting the root growth by cutting off any roots beyond one inch in length under the rock, or let them continue to grow over the rock and into a small container like the wooden bowls. I would allow any root growth that develops within the first 6 months to a year alone. At first its more important to have a successfully acclimated plant before you prune any roots, if any as its only to limit plant growth.  If you have a young plant that was never topped before you should wait at least 6 months to a year. If you don't top the plant it will grow long and become leggy. By topping the plant from time to time it will allow for a fuller plant. One of the great things about this plant is to adapt to many different environments. The acclimation process is a sensitive time which is why adjusting your plant to its new home can be a make or break it time. If your plant was recently topped when you purchased it then you can wait until its growth becomes longer and in 2-3 years it will be ready. When you are ready to top your plant please email me a a few photos at different angles and I will mark a line where I would suggest pruning it. Soon I hope to have videos and photos to show the process, but for now once your done topping the plant there are some good YouTube videos that can show you how to root your Schefflera cutting.The Schefflera can live a long life with minimal care once well established to its surroundings. When introducing this plant into its new environment there are two main factors to consider. The first is to pick the most ideal location in your home or office and keep it there as the location you put it in will dictate its needs. Consistency in its environment when acclimating would be ideal vs. air conditioning on one day and then super hot the next day. The second thing is watering it when its ready with ideal timing as to prevent going to dry and not overwatering either. It needs a chance to breathe and begin to dry out, but that's just it.. once it begins to dry out its ready.

WATERING: Over watering this plant is the most common thing done wrong. When the rock is full of water like a sponge full of water it is full.  When the rock is as damp as a sponge that has dried out to the point that it is still squeazable, but dried to the point that it is damp within and just beginning to dry out on the surface then it is ready to be refilled. The bottom of the rock  should still be slightly damp, but not wet.. and when the top side is just barely beginning to go dry on the surface, but damp just below the surface then its ready for more water. It doesn't really matter how the water is applied as long as it is applied when its ready for water each time.  Water can be poured slowly over the top of the rock at the base of the trunk where it comes out of the rock, the rock can be saturated in a tub of water, or rinsed with a shower of water.  Use the bowl and gravel as previously described above as a humidity aid by only filling with water once dry for the Schefflera.

LIGHT: This plant is known to grow well indoors in a well, lit environment. Even though bright natural light is ideal indoor lighting can be good enough. With 6 to 8 hours of light bright enough to read a book where the plants location is would be a good minimal amount of light if natural light is not available.  The more light it receives the more compact the growth will become. In a darker environment it will generally become long and leggy, developing larger leaves and is harder for a new plant transitioning to a new location. Keep free from dust. Light can be blocked by dust on the leaf surface. Keep away from direct sun. Indirect, and abundant light is preferred.

TEMPERATURE: It can survive if kept above frost levels, but does best with consistency. Something between 50 and 90 degrees F. would be ideal.

FERTILIZER: Some packaging may indicate Schefflera as a plant that it is ideal for use with on the back of the label where the details of the fertilizer are. You could use an all purpose houseplant fertilizer powder or liquid concentrate that is mixed with water, but BE SURE to dilute using a 1/4 strength of what is indicated in the directions on the package of fertilizer. Water the plant with this solution once a month from Spring through Fall.

NOTE: Please see the GENERAL PLANT CARE/PLEASE READ FIRST section, FIRST!!!  I encourage you to learn as much as you can about your plants. With more knowledge comes a higher probability of success. Good luck!

 

Lava Rock Anthurium

GENERAL INFO: These anthurium plants have been specially hybridized for use as houseplants due to trouble free growing requirements. They can be grown with the bowl and gravel as a humidity aid, or planted on top of a pot of soil. The roots will continue to grow over and through the rock and into the soil for a unique look.

WATERING: While anthurium are able to handle dryness around the root ball, they need to be watered thoroughly and allowed to dry slightly before watering again. Allowing the plant to dry out will greatly slow down its growth cycle. Drying out can also cause the tips of the leaves to burn and root damage, while over watering can also cause root damage and sudden yellowing of the leaves.  When the rock is full of water like a sponge full of water it is full. When the rock is like a sponge that has dried out to the point that it is still squeazable and you can almost get a drop of water out of it it is ready to be refilled. It doesn't really matter how the water is applied as long as it is applied when its ready for water each time. Water can be poured slowly over the top of the rock at the base of the growth where it comes out of the rock, the rock can be saturated in a tub of water, or rinsed with the pressure of running water. Use the bowl and gravel as previously described above as a humidity aid.

AIR: They do prefer a more humid environment, but with use of a bowl and gravel, and by misting the roots at the top of the lava rock between watering that will help provide humidity. In especially dry environments humidifiers will be helpful, or in a well lit bathroom…

LIGHT: They can thrive with bright natural light, but not direct sun. Lower levels of light will slow down or cease flower production.

TEMPERATURE: They must always remain above frost levels, and to encourage blooms keep above 50 degrees F. Between 70 and 90 degrees F  night to day would be best.

FERTILIZER: Use a 7-13-7 High Magnesium fertilizer like 58% Mag…  The Anthuriums love their magnesium. Follow the directions on the package feeding it once a month in the winter, and twice a month the rest of the year… or alternatively if you cant find that then you could use an all purpose houseplant fertilizer in a powder or liquid concentrate that is mixed with water, but BE SURE to dilute using a 1/4 strength of what is indicated in the directions on the package of fertilizer. Water the plant with this solution once a month.

NOTE: Please see the GENERAL PLANT CARE/PLEASE READ FIRST section, FIRST!!!  I encourage you to learn as much as you can about your plants. With more knowledge comes a higher probability of success. Good luck!

Plumeria

CARING FOR YOUR PLUMERIA: Plumeria go into a natural dormant period, so it is easy to grow them in containers and bring them inside for winter storage. While dormant, Plumeria do not need to be watered at all.  However there is a more rare Evergreen Variety. Plumeria are very adaptable. They can be grown in containers, in the ground, or you can use the plunging method (sinking containers into the ground). During their growth season, your plant will require lots of sun, water and fertilizer to thrive. When your plumeria gets at least six hours of full sun per day, it will delight you with lots of sweet smelling, beautiful blooms. This plant feeds heavily and will grow and bloom vigorously if you give it plenty of its favorite fertilizer.  Be sure and plant your cutting in fast draining soil or make sure it has adequate drainage. Plumeria can grow up to 20 feet high and 20 feet in diameter… but you can control the size of your plant by the size of container you choose for it.



WATER: Plumeria also love water, but they can’t stand to have wet roots.  Originally it is a drought tolerant desert plant, but in Maui for example it has adapted not only to the dry side of the island, but also the rainforests of Hana too.  The first day each year to add water is March 21st (First day of Spring).  The size of the pot and the root system will determine how much water to add.  The main thing is to allow it to go dry each time before you get it wet again.   In the Summer and especially as more roots grow it will be able to handle more water when watered.  In the Fall it will begin to need less water.  You can stop watering them by Winter. (December 21st.)  If provided with good light versus put into storage for the winter they can still be watered in the Winter but only with about a fifth as much water.

LIGHT: Plumerias love full sun! However, if your plant has been shaded for awhile, such as in the house, do not just plunk it down in the middle of yard. So if you just bought it, it’s been in a greenhouse shaded from full sun and protected from going much over 90*F — so please use caution when acclimating your plant to its new environment. Move it gradually so it can adjust to the strong rays of the sun to avoid ‘sunburn’. Stems that have been stored for the winter need this same gradual care. In order to bloom, your Plumeria will require a lot of sun. They prefer bright, airy spots like sunny greenhouses with good ventilation, or a front walkway that catches the early morning sun into the afternoon. If your succulents and cactus like the spot, so will your Plumeria.

If you would like to keep you plants growing even during the winter, consider growing with florescent lighting. The most important thing to remember with plumeria is that they don’t like ‘wet feet’, don’t let the soil become soggy. This has a lot to do with the makeup of the soil.

If you are just starting out with a cutting, plant the Plumeria in the soil and wet thoroughly, do not water again until you have 4 or five well formed leaves. You can mist the tips every couple of days if it is very warm and dry out. The same goes for a rooted Plumeria that you may have purchased, except for the fact that you can lightly water the plant once a week until a few well formed leaves begin to grow. After that, water and fertilize as needed. When the time comes for the plant to go dormant, these rules go out the window. The only time the plant should be completely dry is in the winter when it has entered this dormant period.

TEMPERATURE: Make sure they are kept at temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. Once established, they can tolerate occasional drops to around freezing for very short periods. Frost will kill the ends and cause a delay in your next bloom. Exposure to freezing temperatures longer than a few hours will kill your Plumeria. As for high temperatures, as long as they have good ventilation, they can do very well on very hot days. Plumeria need warmth, so if you live in a cool climate, you may want to grow them in a greenhouse or the best results. For peak growing day time temps should be in the 80s and 90s while nights should be in the mid 60s to 70s.  They are known to be acclimated to much hotter temperatures.

FERTILIZER: As mentioned before, Plumerias need a lot of food. Fertilization should be applied by liquid or time release methods or by spraying the leaves weekly with a mix of fertilizer. Don’t worry about adding soil mix that contains fertilizer such as Miracle Grow or other plant soil mixes or manure. These do not have the proper drainage needed and will become soggy and are slow to filter the water. Let your plant get its food through the water you give it. If you love to pamper your plant and wish to mix up your own batch of water/fertilizer mix, it is currently recommended that you use a high phosphorus (middle number) water soluble mix such as a ‘super bloom’ type fertilizer (10-50-10). In this way you can accurately measure the amount of fertilizer your plant gets each time you feed it. Feeding the plant every other week will promote healthy branching and most importantly, lots of new blooms. The secret to lots of blooms is lots of branching. Each tip on your Plumeria will produce a flower stock or ‘inflo’ which in turn causes that part of the plant to branch 3 or 4 times. Now each of those 3 or 4 branches will eventually flower and create multiple branches on each of those tips. The goal is to get your plant to flower (for the beautiful fragrant flowers) as much as possible which in turn creates many more flowering opportunities as the tree grows. A fertilizer high in phosphorous will greatly aid your plant in this flowering/branching process. If you are a busy person that does not have time to mix up your own batches of fertilizer or if you are afraid you will forget to feed it regularly, you can buy a time released, pellet type fertilizer that will feed your plant on a regular basis. Again, be sure to get a high middle number fertilizer. For those of you who really want to rev up the flower-ability of your Plumeria is to supplement the water/fertilizer feedings with a foliation fertilizer spray. Plants can make much better use of fertilizer sprayed directly on the leaves as opposed to being added to the soil. A mix of SNG, a 10-10-10 fertilizer and Coco Wet can a super booster to your growing periods. Once Spring and Summer have passed and September roll around it is time to stop the fertilizer feeding and prepare your plant for dormancy.

DORMANT PLUMERIAS: Once the falls arrives and the days shorten, your Plumeria will begin to go dormant. During this time flowering will cease and some if not all of the leaves on your tree will turn yellow and fall off. At this time you should gradually stop watering the plant until you no longer water it at all. During this time of dormancy, if winter temps will fall below freezing, you can bring your potted tree into the house or garage for storage until the next spring. Some people even take the Plumeria out of the soil, wash off the roots and hang it from the rafters or put it in the attic. Just be careful not to break off the roots. As you can see, the Plumeria is almost dead during this time. But once the temps begin to get back into the upper 50s at night and 70s during the day, you can bring your Plumeria back outside again (gradually moving from shade to sun) and its flower time again. This aspect of the Plumeria really makes it an easy plant to grow and take care of. Do not fertilize or water your plant from around September until it has put on 4 or 5 well formed leaves in the spring. Some people will give a light watering once a month during the winter.

SOIL: Plumerias require a soil that promotes good drainage. A good mix would be 1/3 crushed cinder, 1/3 perlite, and 1/3 bark compost or peat.

REPOTTING: After the first year or two, that 4 inch pot your Plumeria started in will be too small to sustain vigorous growth. A 6-8 inch or even larger pot will sustain your Plumeria for the next year ot two. Replant your Plumeria so the stem is at the same level as before. Sometimes you can skip the repotting and just top up your soil. To do this, remove some of the soil off the top of the pot and add fresh mix. You can alternate this with repotting. Pruning the fine roots each spring is beneficial to the plant. The fine roots from the year before will die during the winter. These old roots take a long time to decompose, and may clog your pot. If you prune the roots, you can put fresh soil around the larger roots for several years, keeping the same pot. Just fill the space the old fine roots took up with fresh soil. Be sure to monitor your root system. The key to a healthy Plumeria is a healthy root system. Once the root system has filled the pot, it is best to move up a pot size to allow your plant to expand. This will promote a healthy trunk which needs a growing root stock to promote its growth. Without a healthy, growing trunk it will be difficult for your plant to support its ever branching and growing top.

WINTER PROTECTION: Once the temperatures begin to fall into the 40s, bring your Plumeria indoors. Water them before you bring them in. You should not need to give them water very often, if at all, during the winter. Store the plants in an area with bright light. They can survive storage in a dark, cool place, but they will bloom better the next season if they spent the winter with warmth and light. You’ll see the growth will remain straighter and more compact if they continue to get bright light in the winter. If you have a greenhouse, keeping the plants at around 70 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal. Alternatively, you can store them inside by removing the plants from their pots, shaking off any loose soil and keeping them in a warm attic or closet. If you choose to remove the leaves, give them a couple of days for the latex to dry before storage. When the weather warms up in the spring, take them out and trim the roots before replanting. If you wish, plant them in pots and then submerge the pots in the ground for easy fall removal. This will also promote good growth during warm weather. Don’t forget to provide some shade from direct sun for a couple of weeks as they adjust to the outdoors. VOID if you have an evergreen as the do not go dormant.

PRUNING: You can prune Plumeria at any time using a sharp knife. Be sure to cut at an angle so the cut won’t hold any moisture. The plant will bleed latex sap, but it will stop in a day or so. If you dip the cut briefly in water, it can help it stop flowing. If you think the plant is getting too tall, prune it so the blooms will be at a better height. Your Plumeria will just grow more branches at the point at which you pruned it and this of course will promote even more blooms.

GROWING PLUMERIAS FROM CUTTINGS: Cuttings for propagation should be at least a foot in length. Allow them to dry in a ventilated area for up to a week or longer as needed. Basically the cut needs to scab up or dry. Choose a pot that is 4 inches wide and deep (a black pot can help absorb heat). To plant your cutting make a two inch deep hole in the soil. You can do this by sticking the cutting into the soil after you have filled the pot and wet the soil. Take the cutting back out and put some rooting hormone on the bottom of the cutting. Roots will develop from the bottom of the cutting, so don’t plant it much more than the 2 inches. You may want to pile a few rocks around the base of the cutting to help prop it up once it is planted. Make sure it is kept on the dry side (if watered at all). It will take about a month for your cutting to start to root. You will know it has began rooting once you have 3 or 4 well formed leaves. It is important to provide a warm environment and bottom heat, it will root better. A heat pad underneath can help if too cold to leave out in an area with heat on a hot surface. Just remember that each type of cutting will have its own growing characteristics and some will emerge quicker than others by taking root and some no matter how well you follow the directions will not instead some will rot. Hopefully within 3-6 months you'll have a decent root system developing.
Best of luck!

Once planted, if they are kept too moist the cuttings may begin to rot. Cuttings should not be watered until a few leaves have formed at the tip indicating a root system is forming unless the soil is completely dry. At that point water sparingly and slowly increase the amount of water as the plant progresses. The hotter/drier it is the more you can water. If it is winter or late fall and you can provide a heat mat and strong indoor florescent lighting, it is recommended that you wait to plant your cutting in late spring. Cuttings can be stored in a cool dry place for many months. Just wrap them up in some news paper and pull them out when you are ready to go!

GROWING PLUMERIAS FROM SEEDS: Plumeria can be grown easily from seed, but the seedlings will not remain true to their variety. All named varieties are grown from cuttings from plants with excellent characteristics. A cutting will always be just like the parent. A seedling may have different characteristics from the parent. If you want to grow your own seed, just let the pods develop and ripen over several months. The pod will explode sending seeds everywhere, so you may want to tie a paper bag around it to catch all the seed. Each pod holds about 100 seeds. Plant the seeds in a 3-4 inch tray with bottom heat. Use a soil-less mix such as Pro-Mix as the growing medium. Plant the seeds about ¼ inch deep. Tamp them down firmly and water them gently. You’ll be amazed at how quickly they sprout. Don’t overwater. When they have grown at least two true leaves, transplant them to small pots. They will grow quickly and will bloom in about 2 to 3 years.

and now, the condensed version…

GENERAL INFO: Their rich and memorable flagrance is known as ‘the scent of Hawaii’. The Dwarf Singapore Evergreen has a thick succulent round tipped leaf, and produces yellow throated white flowers. The leaf of deciduous Plumeria has a fine pointed tip that is meant to begin dropping off in the fall. When grown in the pot it can be forced into dormancy and stored away all winter long. The evergreen variety will keep its leaves all winter so leave it in a pot if its too cold to survive your winter season.

ROOTING: To enhance root growth use a rooting formula designed for soft wood cuttings, and plant the cut side down halfway in a small 4 inch pot. Moisten the soil, but until roots are developed, do not over water. Placing pot on warm cement ground will aid the rooting process.

REPOTTING: The more room the roots have the bigger the plant will become. Use a porous potting media so it can drain well. One part cinder to 3 parts potting soil evenly mixed, or an even combination of perlite, peat moss, and cinder.  By cutting the plant back, and increasing its pot size a little at a time it will not only be easier to bring in and as it gets older, but it will cause the trunk to grow thicker and the plant to become fuller with a lot more flower potential, and hopefully a forest of Plumeria with all your cuttings that can be planted into new Plumeria! KEEP IN ORIGINAL POT UNTIL ROOTBOUND.

WATERING: They like to get real wet once well rooted, but then like to dry well.

LIGHT: The more sun you can provide it the more flowers it can produce. With the right lighting it can bloom indoors, but direct sun is preferred.

TEMPERATURE: It can survive if kept above frost levels, and is known to be able to tolerate up to 120 degrees F., but will do best between 60 and 90 degrees F.

FERTILIZER: During the Spring and Fall months a milder fertilizer product designed for flowering plants will suffice. In the summer Super Bloom made by Greenlight Company is one of many products that along with bright sun will help enhance its blooming cycle.

BLOOMS: Each flower stem, or inflorescent can produce up to 60 flowers, and in time it can produce hundreds of flowers a year.

NOTE: Please see the GENERAL PLANT CARE/PLEASE READ FIRST section, FIRST!!!  I encourage you to learn as much as you can about your plants. With more knowledge comes a higher probability of success. Good luck!

Please see Plumeria101.com for more information regarding identifying bugs that affect plumeria and pest control methods, etc.

 

 

 

 

 

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